TRESB Project

                                                    TRESB PROJECT

1. The project started maiunly because of the tweed river and its problems such as the breakwaters impacting on the beaches. They dredged the mouth of the tweed river, the river was affecting the beaches.
2. They dredged the mouth of the tweed river and used the sand for beach nourishment which in turn stopped the issues of breakwaters impacting on the beach. They basically built  a large wall that stops the water from washing through the beach.
3. The project was extremely effective and the beaches were restored to their normal size if not larger. The areas that were affected were Duranbah Beach, Rainbow Bay, Greenmount Beach, Coolangatta Beach.

Vocab

VOCAB

constructive waves- small low-energy waves that deposit sand onto beaches
corrasion- occurs when waves crash over rock shelves and more rock and other material helping to erode the rock shelf away
corrosion- the action of salt on minerals like iron that are contained in rock, weakening the rock an making it more susceptible to erosion
deposition- the depositing of sand and rock particles caused by wind and wave action forming features such as beaches
destructive waves- large waves formed by tropical cyclones and storms that erode material from beaches
erosion- the removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action fetch- the distance that wind travels over the ocean to form wavesforedune- the closest dune to the ocean or the first dune in a sand dune system
hydraulic action- where waves enter cracks in rocks, air is compressed by the force of the water causing erosion and forming features such as blow holes
longshore drift- the process, caused by waves hitting the coast at an angle, that is responsible for moving sand along the coast
refraction- the bending of waves around headlands
surf and swash zone- the active part of the coast in terms of erosion and deposition of sand by wave action; the surf zone is immediately adjacent to the coast and the swash zone is at the shore once the waves have broken.
vegetation succession- the natural progression of vegetation from low-lying, salt-tolerant plants on the foredune, through to shrubs and established trees on the hind dunes.
wave height- the vertical distance between the trough and the peak of a wave wavelength- the horizontal distance between wave peaks7.1breakwaters- a protective structure of stone or concrete; extends from shore into the water to prevent a beach from washing away 
faecal coliform- a common pollutant in water
silting - Silt is soil or rock derived granular material of a grain size between sand and clay
tidal flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides

7.2
ground swell - a broad and deep undulation of the ocean
plunging waves - Plunging waves may occur mainly at low tide when the water on sandbanks is shallow, which means there is less water on which the waves can break.
spilling waves - Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face.
surging waves - A surging wave occurs where the sea is relatively deep until into the near-shore zone.
wind swell - waves generated by local winds

7.3
aeolian - A term applied to wind erosion or deposition of surface materials.
spinifex - A grass which grows in large, distinctive clumps or hummocks in the driest areas of central and western Australia.7.4
dredging - Dredging is an excavation activity or operation usually carried out at least partly underwater, in shallow seas or fresh water areas with the purpose of gathering up bottom sediments and disposing of them at a different location.erosion-accretion cycle
groynes - Fixed structures extending out from the seawall used to control erosion or promote deposition.
revegetation - is the process of replanting and rebuilding the soil of disturbed land
sea walls - aim to prevent erosion of the coast by providing a barrier which reflects wave energy

7.7
environmental impact study - is an assessment of the possible impact--positive or negative--that a proposed project may have on the environment, together consisting of the natural, social and economic aspects.
impact assessment - is "a process aimed at structuring and supporting the development of policies. It identifies and assesses the problem at stake and the objectives pursued. 7.8
bitou bush - is an evergreen flowering shrub with glossy round leaves in the Asteraceae
marram grass -  a species of grass that is tolerant of dry, sand dune environments
noxious weed -  A weed specified by law as being especially undesirable, troublesome and difficult to control7.9
anemometer - a gauge for recording the speed and direction of wind
hygrometer - measuring instrument for measuring the relative humidity of the atmosphere

Belharra, The Beast of France

BELHARRA

The Beast Of France

The Wave: Belharra, aka Mammouth 

Where is the wave: Off the coast of Saint Jean-de-Luz, Basque Country, France

When is the wave: Hit headlines in 2003, but known by locals for well over 10 years beforehand.

Stats: Starts breaking at 12ft, can reach heights of 60ft+.

Lying approximately 2km of the coast of Saint Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque Country lies the titan wave Belharra. Accessible only by boat or jetski, this rock-reef break only raises its head a handful of times a year- but what a day it is when it does.

Belharra (literally meaning “grass” or “seaweed” in the Basque language) is a relatively recent discovery in the bigwave surfing world.  You may have come across it in the surf film “The Billabong Odyssey” back in 2003 and since then it has grown in popularity to be considered as one of the best tow-in surf spots in Europe.  Its power, speed and shear brute force have the pros and adrenaline fiends clamoring to take it on.

 

The wave is generated by huge storms out in the Atlantic which bombard the south western coast of France usually during the winter months.  Belharra is created by massive swells hitting the rock reef approximately 15ft below sea level when it's low tide.  The rock shelf forces the enormous swells up into an explosive breaking wave, which produces the roaring fast moving wave faces that big wave riders live for.

 

Belharra provides both lefts and rights to be ridden, and is strictly for those who know what they are doing.  If you get this one wrong, then you can be looking at quite a hold down underneath its foamy surface, and the danger of being pushed down onto the sharp rock reef sea floor.

 

The Science of Big Waves

Pre-Video Questions

1.  Waves are formed by the action of wind blowing across the ocean. First the wind forms ripples, and then small wavelets and finally waves.
2. A surfer should know quite a number of things about waves before catching it. They should know whether it is a rolling wave or a dumping  wave, the power behind the wave and the direction the wave is breaking.


Questions for the Video.

Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. Energy is transferring between the water instead of the actual water moving. When the large amount of water and energy hits the shallows, the water and energy can only go upwards creating a large wave.

Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? The waves originate from wind further out on the ocean. Wind speed, Wind duration, and area the wind is covering all effect the size of the wave. The longer the wave length, the bigger the wave will be due to a longer wave length being increased and the frequency being decreased. 

What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? Maverick is extremely large because of the ocean floor having a "bunch of rock" at the bottom which quickly focus the power and create the large wave. The wave has bent and rise because the rocks have slowed it down. The waves creates so much power that is actually shakes the North American plate

How is energy stored and transferred during wave? 

Energy is transferring between the water instead of the actual water moving. When the large amount of water and energy hits the shallows, the water and energy can only go upwards creating a large wave.

List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” To go in quickly and "catch some fire before the wrath of the gods come down on you". Be careful because it is like the wave in swallowing you and you will only worry about survival.

7.2 Geography

Homework Geography 7.1

1. Describe how the settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal environment?
Australia's population is expanding especially in the coastal region therefore more issues are becoming apparent. 

2. Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies?
 To stop many issues occurring such as pollution, overdevelopment, inappropiate development and to keep the wellbeing of the coast and Australian waters.

3. What trend has been labelled 'sea change'?
The trend of more and more people moving from large cities to smaller coastal towns and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed.

4. Describe one government response to 'sea change'.
Residential caps or a population ceiling for their town in an effort to stop overdevelopment of the area.

5. Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue.
Pollution - People not disposing of rubbish correctly.
Overdevelopment - people moving to small beach towns and building house/apartments.
Inappropriate - Developments that alter the natural environment(usually large to house many)
6. What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments?
They play a role in finding out what the Environment or specific area needs, what state it needs to get to and all the details in between.